Archive copy by Jenni Baden Howard

Shopping for skincare has become a seriously hi-tech business. Making your way through the maze of futuristic-sounding formulas with how-do-you-pronounce-that? ingredients is, in itself, enough to give you a frownlines. These days, blink and you’ll miss the unveiling of another ‘’super-ingredient’ or groundbreaking scientific breakthrough.

How to make sense of it all and crack the cutting edge-skincare code - white lab coat not required? What’s needed is a dose of label-deciphering and an understanding of what the most talked-about ingredients of the moment are actually designed to do. In many cases, these key ‘actives’ and/or their action on the skin are either derived from – but used in a much less concentrated form – or ‘inspired by’ the sort of professional treatments available at the doctor or dermatologist’s clinic (think frownline-relaxers, complexion-buffers, ‘line-fillers’ and more).

While the new generation of at-home skin-rejuvenators found on the supermarket shelf are, by definition, going to have a much subtler effect than more concentrated (and costlier) professional formulas, clinical tests have shown that they can make a difference to the tone and texture of the skin, and how pronounced existing lines look. In addition, many of these products contain ingredients such as antioxidants (see our Jargon-busting checklist) designed to help protect skin against the aging effects of environment stress), whilst keeping it well-hydrated and soft. Nevertheless, it’s important to read packaging carefully and consult your doctor or dermatologist if you have any concerns about a product’s suitability, especially if you are prone to sensitivity or have any sort of skin condition such as eczema.

Here is our at-a-glance guide to 6 of the most talked-about skincare products of the moment, and the professional technology that inspired them.

Champney’s new Natural Micro-Derm Face Polish (£11)

One of the most popular, non-surgical facial treatments of recent years, professional microdermabrasion involves the deep, “dry” exfoliation of the skin by spraying it with tiny, usually aluminium oxide micro-crystals which are then whisked away, along with surface dead skin cells. This reveals a fresher, brighter, more even-looking complexion and stimulates cellular turnover (this naturally increases to replace the layer of dead cells which has been removed).

Formulated to provide deep exfoliation and reveal smoother, more luminous-looking skin, Champney’s new Natural Micro-Derm Face Polish uses microfine, bamboo-derived exfoliating particles along with jojoba wax beads to buff away surface dead skin cells. For maximum, spa-style benefits, the delicious-smelling, gel-based formula should be used after cleansing, rinsed off and followed with a face mask before toning and moisturising as usual.

How get the smoothest results? ‘Apply the polish to cleansed and dampened skin, using your fingers to work it into a lather,’ says Nicola Doe, Champney’s expert therapist. ‘Move from your neck to the chin, cheeks, forehead and nose, paying particular attention to dry or congested areas.’

L’ Oréal Paris ReFinish Micro-Dermabrasion Kit (£12.05)

Also inspired by professional microdermabrasion techniques, this two-step exfoliating treatment is also designed to leave skin smoother, softer and to stimulate cellular turnover. First, the Micro-Dermabrasion Resurfacing Exfoliator, which contains a high concentration of aluminium oxide micro-crystals, is used to remove surface skin cells. This is then removed and a Post-Treatment Optimising Moisturiser SPF 15 is applied to soothe, hydrate and provide UV protection. This is especially important after microdermabrasion treatments which can leave skin more sensitive to the sun.

L’ Oréal Paris Wrinkle De-Crease Collagen Filler (£14.99)

In cosmetic procedures, lines and wrinkles are ‘de-creased’ and ‘filled in’ by injecting them with a filling substance to create a smooth, even surface. In the case of this professionally-inspired, at-home product, a silicone-enriched complex is applied directly onto pronounced lines – such as those on the forehead, around the eyes and mouth - to mask their surface appearance. At the same time, ‘Collagen Biospheres’ – small molecules – penetrate the upper layers of the skin and inflate on contact with the skin’s water content, to enhance the cosmetic ‘filling’ effect.

Garnier UltraLift Anti-Wrinkle Firming Cream (£7.98)

Another product that claims to ‘un-crease’ existing lines and reduce their appearance, the key ingredient in this day cream is ginger. Shown to have a natural, skin-smoothing effect, the ginger extract is combined with natural essence of cherries to help reduce the appearance of lines and make skin feel firmer.

Nivea Visage Anti-Wrinkle Q10 Plus Day Cream

The day cream in this bestselling range from Nivea is based on the active ingredient co-enzyme Q10, a powerful, skin-protecting antioxidant (see Jargon-busting) and Creatine, a substance found naturally in the skin that has been shown to help skin store energy (rather like a battery) and use it when and where it is most needed. These two active ingredients work together to provide anti-aging antioxidant protection and a rejuvenating treatment to help visibly reduce the appearance of existing lines.

Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum

This intensive moisturising, line-targeting and complexion-brightening serum is the latest addition to Olay’s Regenerist range, designed to offer an alternative to more drastic measures such as professional chemical peels. The key ingredient, as with the entire Renergist line-up, is an exclusive amino-peptide complex (see Jargon-busting) formulated to help regenerate the surface of the skin. This is combined with a concentrated dose of Olay moisturiser.

• Suits you?

At-home skin ‘resurfacing’ treatments such as DIY-microdermabrasion kits and chemical peels treatments should never be used on skin which is inflamed, irritated or damaged. Those with sensitive skin or any skin condition should seek advice from their doctor or dermatologist before trying them. Follow the advice, too, about taking extra care to protect skin in the sun after use.

• Jargon-busting

An at-a-glance guide to some of the most popular buzzwords and ingredients in skincare right now:

Antioxidants: one of the hottest ingredients in modern skincare, antioxidant ingredients act as an environmental shield by interacting with harmful free radical molecules in the environment – shown to damage skin cells and accelerate the aging process - and halting the chain reaction that results in damage. Natural antioxidants include vitamins C – a potent, ‘multi-tasking’ antioxidant which helps to speed up wound healing, stimulate collagen production and brighten skin generally - and vitamin E, grapeseed extract, green tea and betacarotene. Co-enzyme Q, which occurs naturally in the skin, is another antioxidant associated with reducing premature signs of aging.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs): these naturally occuring acids in fruit and milk soften and remove dead skin cells, stimulating cellular renewal and creating a smoother, fresher-looking appearance. Glycolic acid is one of the most commonly-used AHAs, as its exceptionally small molecules penetrate more deeply.

Ceramides: these fatty components of skin cells are artificially recreated in skincare products to help achieve a plumped-up effect.

Liposomes: these are simply microscopic ‘bubbles’ of a specific skincare ingredient, designed to achieve a deeper and more effective penetration of the product.

Retinoids: found in many anti-aging formulas, these vitamin A derivatives (such as Retin-A and retinol) have been shown to help reverse the signs of aging, treat acne and build collagen to create firmer, more elastic skin. However, retinoids can be irritating to the skin, and cause it to become more sensitive to the sun (see Suits you?).

Peptides: another hot ingredient of the moment, a peptide is a small protein comprised of amino acids that has been shown to achieve a skin-smoothing, line-filling effect when applied topically. The long-term effects of peptides have not yet been established.

* Doctor’s orders …

Prevention is always better than cure – do as dermatologists suggests and shield skin with an SPF of at least 15 every day, either in your moisturiser or make-up base, to protect it against UV damage and premature signs of aging.