Archive copy by Jenni Baden Howard

Veteran British hairdresser and trendsetter Trevor Sorbie is the latest industry pro to be tapping into the trend. His super-luxe new Rejuvenate haircare range is the latest to join the new generation (literally) of exciting lines which target the sophisticated, dynamic fortysomething-plus woman. Everything in the expertly-edited collection is designed to address the specific needs of mature hair - namely the problem of thinning, loss of lustre, dryness and what to do with those notoriously tricky, sticky-up grey bits. Think smoothing, soothing and replenishing.

But Sorbie’s new line is not just about hi-tech trouble-shooting, but the feel-fabulous factor, too. Key ingredients, such as cashmere and silk proteins, are included in the mix in order to appeal to women who appreciate such things - and, crucially, have the disposal income to indulge in them.

‘The spending power is certainly there,’ says Martin Hayward, chairman of leading UK strategic marketing consultancy The Henley Centre. ‘Fortysomethings, like everybody, have more money to spend these days. And, as they get better off, less of the household budget is eaten up on basics and hence they are spending a greater proportion of their money on “non-essentials”. And they’re not lusting after a new washing machine or whatever anymore, because they’ve got all that. They’re looking now for other ways to spend their money. It’s more about “how shall I treat myself today?”.’

Enter lines like Sorbie’s. ‘Women of today are definitely looking younger, sassier and trendier for longer,’ says the man who should know. Born in Scotland (his father was a barber), Sorbie has been at the forefront of British hairdressing since the early Seventies, when he created “The Wedge”. A respected Super-stylist with his finger on the style pulse but with decades of experience behind him, Sorbie isn’t the sort to launch a line based on a fad likely to be “out” again within the flick of a razored fringe.

‘There are so many products for younger women, I thought it was about time a classy, upmarket range was designed that addressed the needs of more mature hair. A range that would give volume, smoothness and shine.’

Discussing the line, Sorbie uses words like “chic” and “trendy” a lot. The idea of a woman hitting forty and, simultaneously, “frumpdom” doesn’t even enter into it. Attitudes towards facing the (not so) “big 40” are changing, and resignation replaced with excitement about entering what has been dubbed “middle-youth”.

‘The old “life stages” really don’t work anymore,’ agrees Hayward. ‘And there are a lot of thirty and fortysomethings who haven’t got married or started a family yet and are still leading the lifestyle of a teenager.’

Recently-coined buzz-phrases such as “the fabulous fifties” and “fifty is the new forty” are supported by facts and figures. According to Barclays, for example, ten per cent more of the over-fifties are setting up their own businesses compared with ten years ago.

Sorbie, too, has done his research. The Rejevunate formulas fall into two, clearly defined categories - for Fine or thinning or Dry, coarse or permed - and all contain a protective antioxidant complex, along with UV filters to shield against the detrimental effects of sun and pollution (the luxurious cocktail also helps protect already-dehydrated tresses against damage caused by heated appliances). Star products include the Rejuvenate Shampoo and Conditioner (£3.99 each), Replenishing Treatment (£4.99), Instant Body Boost Mousse (£3.99), Cream Serum (£6.49) and Smoothing Balm (£4.99).

The timely launch of Rejuvenate is only part of a fast-growing, bigger picture. Companies can’t afford not to sit up and take notice of recent findings: a report by JWT revealed that by 2020, every second European adult will be over fifty, and that there are already nearly twice as many over-fifties as there are under-sixes in the UK.

Working along much the same lines as Sorbie, L’ Oreal’s Elvive Regenium “age-defying” haircare range has been a big success. Having the ever-stunning Catherine Denueve as its “spokesmodel” certainly hasn’t hurt sales of this advanced, specialist range aimed at women in their mid-forties and above whose tresses are fine and dry. In the television commercial, Deneuve delivers the immortal line “because I’m worth it” with the sort of sexy gravitas which only comes with age (and being French, you could argue).

Stateside, fellow L’ Oreal “faces” Dayle Haddon and Andie MacDowell are both busy models-cum-actresses (Haddon is an author, to boot) and dedicated mothers who front “mature” product ranges yet only seem to get more radiant as the years go by. The same can be said of Revlon model Julianne Moore. The couldn’t-be-hotter Oscar nominee and fortysomething mother of two represents the company’s Age Defying Make Up range and Lash Tint long-lasting mascara.

‘Julianne is the perfect example of today’s modern woman,’ says Revlon president Jeff Nugent, who goes on to praise the ‘respected actress and dedicated mother ... Julianne knows what’s important in life and pursues it with confidence and integrity.’ Before Moore, Melanie Griffiths was Revlon’s Age Defying “face”, and actress Cybill Shepherd successfully represented Ultima II’s popular Glowtion line in the Nineties.

Beauty companies know that it’s not simply a famous face that sells products, but one which is relevant to its target customer in terms of age and life experience (if not the million dollar lifestyle). ‘She becomes more than a pretty face. She seems to be a rich, three-dimensional character,’ says Linda Wells, editor of American beauty magazine Allure, of today’s famous “face”. ‘In these advertisements, the celebrity talks to the viewer, taking her into her confidence. The viewer thinks “Hey, actress X is just like me!” And that sense of identification is tantalising.’

The fact that many of the beauty pros behind the most successful ranges are getting older themselves inevitably influences the sort of products they are inclined to create. Make-up artist Bobbi Brown admits that she developed her delicious-smelling, mature skin-cosseting Extra skincare line (available at Pure Beauty stores) primarily for selfish reasons. ‘It’s one of the best things I’ve ever done for myself,’ she admits. ‘The products are balm-based, and act as an instant pick-me-up. They’re ideal if you’re noticing that your skin is getting drier as you get older, as I did.’

Indeed, many of the richer “wonder creams” are best suited to more mature complexions. ‘They tend to be more intensive, which is fine for mature skins, but can be just too heavy for younger complexions,’ agrees A-list London facialist Vaishaly Patel, who helps Nigella Lawson to keep glowing. ‘I see a lot of younger women using these creams which they don’t truly need.’

Treatments geared towards the sophisticated, forty-plus woman certainly set the cash tills ringing. It is telling that Lancome’s superb Absolue Absolute Replenishing Cream (£70), which targets the hormonal effects of aging, became the bestselling prestige skincare product in France shortly after its launch. It has proved hugely popular on this side of the Channel, too, as has Chanel’s indulgent, very chic Ultra Correction Anti-Wrinkle Restructuring Night Cream (£47, at selected Boots and Pure Beauty stores).

The “baby boomer” (and beyond) beauty trend doesn’t stop with shampoo and skincare. McCleans’ 40 + (£2.49) toothpaste tackles problems such as sensitivity with low-abrasive ingredients, and contains more flouride than standard toothpastes.

Meanwhile, in fragrance, a previous proliferation of young, fresh but hardly statement-making scents has been superseded by a craving for more potent, “grown-up” classics such as Chanel’s No 5 (£36.50, 35 ml eau de parfum), Guerlain’s bestselling Samsara (£26, 30 ml eau de toilette) and, more recently, the addictively sensual Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan (£27, 30 ml eau de parfum). With her unstoppable energy and drive, the fiftysomething New York fashion designer herself shows no signs of slowing down (other than in her daily dawn yoga class) anytime soon.

You get the sense this is just the beginning, and that there’s a booming business to be made in pampering the fortysomethings (and over) who aren’t just happy to act their age, they want to celebrate it. They’re a force to be reckoned with. Clever Trevor.

Forty-plus and fabulous

Michelle Pfeiffer gets more gorgeous as the years go by. Refreshing in her reluctance to hold back the years with cosmetic surgery, the Hollywood wife, actress and mother of two prefers to pamper herself with organic lotions and potions.

Kristin Scott Thomas was recruited by Giorgio Armani to star in his latest advertising campaign. The fact that this very English beauty is based in Paris with her French husband injects her style with a certain, je ne sais quoi allure.

Isabella Rossellini is inspiring in her refusal to act anything less than her age when she entered her forties. As an actress and model, she is all the more beautiful for it.

Lulu is as radiant and impossibly energetic as ever. The singer and yoga devotee proves that a fashion-concious wardrobe and fab, funky haircuts are not just for twenty and thirtysomethings.

Diane Keaton has a just as much wit and irresistible, kooky allure today as she did as Annie Hall. If not more.