Archive copy by Jenni Baden Howard

The new wave of so-called “cosmeceutical” formulas aim to combine the latest, hot-from-the-labs scientific advances with more traditional, holistic principles (active natural ingredients feature strongly). These more powerful, high performance products are targeted at those keen to see noticeable results - namely, smoother, brighter, younger-looking skin - sans surgery or prescription-strength treatments.

One such range which has been causing a stir Stateside is Doctor’s Dermatologic Formula (DDF), which is making its UK debut at Harvey Nichols. The range was founded ten years ago by eminent New York dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon Dr Howard Sobel, MD, and a team of industry experts. These include bio-chemist Dr Paul Tremblay and company spokesperson Elaine Linker, who specialises in Nutrition and Herbology and is closely involved in research and development. The line has a high profile following in America, where it flies out of leading “medi-spas” and Sephora stores.

‘“Cosmeceutical” formulations are a very big trend in the US,’ says Linker. ‘The demand for products that have the ability to restore and prevent environmentally damaged skin as well as age-related degeneration is huge. DDF takes advantage of both traditional and medical science and alternative therapies, drawing on various botanical, marine and herbal benefits. We study each discipline to decide which has true efficacy ... [the result being] a synergistic blend that has more potency, without the side effects that might be gotten had we only used one discipline.’

Products focus on “prevention” and “restoration”, and divide into different treatment categories targeted at specific skin types and concerns. The glycolic formulations, for example, include an exfoliating Glycolic Wash (£20), which contains 7 per cent glycolic acid (a derivative of sugar cane).

‘Glycolic products increase the skin’s exfoliation process, helping to remove dry, dead skin cells more quickly, bringing to the surface a fresher, younger skin cell,’ explains Linker. ‘Also, there is better absorption of any topical treatment products applied to the skin.’

The Retinol range incorporates the powerful anti-aging Vitamin A derivative, in addition to a “synergistic” mix of other vitamins, minerals, plant and herbal extracts. ‘Our Retinol products can help in the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles without the redness and irritation associated with prescription Retin A,’ claims Linker. In addition to a Retinol Moisturizer (£67.50), there is a Body Lotion (£71.50), designed to “visibly renew” the skin, and strengthen its support system.

As you’d expect from a range developed by a dermatologist, sun protection is a priority. ‘The best preventative anti-aging product is sunscreen,’ states Linker. ‘DDF believes that this is the only product necessary for daytime use, so we make a moisturising sunscreen for those who need to use a moisturiser and a matte sunscreen for slightly oilier skins, and those who find using sunscreen cosmetically unappealing.’ (See the Moisturizing Photoage and Matt Photoage, £17 each, respectively).

‘At all ages, the women I see in my practice want to know how to take better care of their skin, prevent future environmental damage and restore the look of youth,’ adds Dr Sobel. ‘I believe in a simple concept: cleanser, sunscreen for the day and a treatment product at night that addresses their major concern, from acne to aging.’

To shield the skin against the aging effects of free radicals, the popular Bio-Active Nourishing Serum (£41.50) is an antioxidant blend based on vitamins and herbs. The line-up also includes products to pamper hands and feet, from Moisturizing Gel Socks (£75) to an Antiseptic Nail & Cuticle Oil (£24), with anti-fungal tea tree oil.

Addressing concerns about possible irritation, Linker maintains that the DDF products available at Harvey Nichols do not have the potential to cause the harsh side effects associated with some prescription treatments. That said, she emphasises the importance of a thorough consultation at the counter and cautions that acid-based products can exacerbate certain skin conditions, such as psoriasis, eczema and rosacea. ‘These need medical care,’ says Linker. ‘And if anyone has a spot which even remotely resembles a skin cancer, immediate help should be sought from a licensed, professional doctor.’

As long as there’s a demand for products which promise a fresher, glowier complexion, the quest for groundbreaking new ingredients will continue apace. ‘This fall, we are adding 5 new skincare products to our anti-aging line,’ reveals Linker. ‘They work by increasing the metabolic energy of the cells, making them “act” younger.’

The appliance of science or old-school rituals? On Planet Beauty right now, it’s all about choice.

• The DDF range is available exclusively in the Beyond Beauty department at Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge. Inquiries and mail order, tel: 020- 7235 5000.