Archive copy by Jenni Baden Howard
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"How To Colour Your Hair At Home", Back To Basics Column for The Daily Telegraph
This week: colouring your hair at home
Meet the expert: celebrity hair colourist Jo Hansford’s Mayfair salon is a popular paparazzi stake-out: clients include Liberty Ross, Elizabeth Hurley, Cate Blanchett and Angelina Jolie. Hansford recently returned Yasmin Le Bon to her glossy, brunette glory (tel: 020 7495 7774).
Do: aim to enhance - rather than to dramatically change - your hair colour. ‘Go no more than one or two shades lighter or darker,’ says Jo. ‘For anything more drastic, go to a professional.’
Choose your formula carefully. ‘Temporary colours usually last for up to eight shampoos; semi-permanents or “tone-on-tone” products last for an average of sixteen washes, and permanent colours grow out, rather than fade, and hence reapplications will be necessary every four to six weeks.’
Scrutinise the packaging and cautions, and don’t be tempted to skip the strand test.’Everyone’s hair is different,’ says Hansford. ‘If, for example, you have more natural red tones, this will affect the colour result. The same applies to previously coloured hair.’ Do a skin sensitivity test, too. ‘Even if you have coloured your hair before, it is possible to become allergic to certain ingredients,’ says Hansford.
Buy two boxes of colour if your hair is particularly long and/or thick. ‘Throw away what you don’t use - once the colour is activated, it will only last a certain amount of time,’ says Hansford.
‘Application methods differ, so follow instructions to the letter,’ says Hansford. ‘To ensure even application, divide hair into four quarters, like a hot cross bun. Using a wide-toothed comb, start applying colour in two inch sections from the back of the head. Get someone to help you, if necessary. Work through all your hair, finishing at the front at the hairline. Wearing gloves, use your hands to massage the product through the hair for even coverage. Apply petroleum jelly to your hairline, to avoid staining, and use a bin liner to protect your clothing from drips.’
Leave colour on for the exact time specified. ‘Tints stop working after a period of time, but taking them off too soon can give undesirable, patchy results,’ says Hansford. ‘Rinse thoroughly, and follow with extra-nourishing conditioner.’
Don’t: ‘attempt highlighting, which is a very technical process, or a drastic colour change at home - both generally end in disaster,’ warns Hansford. ‘Also, don’t try to correct mistakes at home by using another colour on top. Always seek professional advice.’
Shop like a pro: stay within one or two shades of your existing colour - ‘this is safest at home,’ says Hansford - and consider your skin tone, too. ‘Don’t be taken in by the gorgeous model on the box - the picture is not always a true indication of how your colour will turn out.’
The best buys for less: Jo Hansford’s Perfect Colour Permanent Hair Colour (£5.99, at Boots); Clairol’s Nice ‘n’ Easy permanent colour, used by colourist James Brown on Kate Moss, Sadie Frost and others (£5.99, available nationwide); Boots’ Simply Natural Level Two, semi-permanent, or Three, permanent (from £4.99); Nicky Clarke’s Colour, semi-permament (£7.99, at Boots); L’ Oréal Paris’ Feria Colour Booster, permanent colour (£7.49) or Excellence Cream, permament colour ideal for grey coverage (£7.99, both available nationwide); Wella’s Shaders & Toners, wash-in, wash-out colour (£1.25 per sachet, available nationwide); Inecto’s Hint Of A Tint, shampoo-in, temporary colour (99p per sachet, at independent chemists, tel: 020 7351 3216).
Blow the budget: Jo Hansford’s Bespoke Vegetable Colour, temporary (from £32, available direct from the salon); Charles Worthington’s Dream Colour, permanent (£8.95, at Boots); Daniel Galvin’s Exclusive Permanent Colour (£9.99, at Boots).
Trade secret: use a reliable kitchen timer to guage development times - don’t rely on checking your watch/clock. Maintain your gorgeous new colour by using shampoos and conditioners for colour-treated tresses, such as Jo Hansford’s Perfect Colour products (at Sainsbury’s and Superdrug).
Posted by Jenni Baden Howard | Copyright © 2004 - 2007 Kappakoi