Archive copy by Jenni Baden Howard

BARELY-THERE

For foundation-phobes and those who prefer their make-up to look as natural as possible, the new generation of ultra-sheer make-up bases are a must-try. Even the most sceptical, non-foundation wearing natural beauties have been converted after using New York-based make-up artist Vincent Longo’s Water Canvas make-up system (£28). A hotly sought after silky cream-to-powder foundation, it boasts an exceptionally high water content which is kept fresh and dewy in its airtight compact. Famous fans of Water Canvas include Cate Blanchett, Cher, Winona Ryder and Gwyneth Paltrow, who recently told American Vogue “If I have to wear a base, it’s Vincent Longo”. Take your pick from 5 natural-looking shades (at Selfridges, selected salons and by mail order, tel: 01252- 741601).

Chic New York-based make-up company Chantecaille’s bestselling Real Skin (£39) may not come cheap, but you are paying for the appliance of science (and rather smart packaging). This translucent foundation has a gel-like texture - a hi-tech mix of micro particle powder and oil, formulated in Japan - and glides onto the skin using the sponge provided, leaving it smoother and more radiant.

‘Women who have been used to wearing traditional foundations say that it makes their skin look so much fresher and it also helps to conceal fine lines around the mouth and eyes,’ says Sylvie Chantecaille. ‘Make-up today should not be about camouflage, but enhancing a woman’s natural beauty and smoothing out the imperfections.’ Real Skin is available in 8 shades, of which the latest, Bliss, is a warm beige suitable for those who steer towards yellow-toned foundations (at space NK apothecary and by mail order, tel: 0870- 169 9999).

Similar in texture and certainly more affordable, Revlon’s MoistureStay Moisturiser & Foundation Stick (£11.50) is a water-gel-based formula which liquefies on contact with the skin, providing a long-lasting luminous finish. It also contains a Milk Protein & Plant Derivative Complex which helps the skin to maintain moisture (for stick foundations which offer more coverage, see FOUNDATION STICKS).

Super-lightweight, “is she or isn’t she wearing foundation?” formulas don’t just come in compact form. Used by make-up artists and described as “liquid skin in a bottle”, Prescriptives’ bestselling Virtual Skin (£19.50) gives smooth, medium coverage and contains skin-protecting antioxidants and an SPF 10. There are no less than 26 shades, from the lightest to the darkest, including 3 new tones launched for autumn.

For those who have been wearing a sheer tinted moisturiser through the summer months and would like to switch to something with a little more coverage for autumn, Aveda’s new Moisture Plus Tint SPF 15 (£20) is ideal. An oil-free formula, it is much creamier and smoother to apply than gel-based tinted moisturisers and helps to unify skin tone, conceal minor imperfections and gives skin a really fresh, healthy glow. It comes in 3 natural shades (for stockists, tel: 01730- 232380). Other creamy tinted bases which come highly recommended are Dr Hauschka’s Toned Day Cream (£18), a one-shade-suits-all moisturiser with rose essential oil - it smells delicious - that takes the edge off a winter pallor (for stockists and mail order, tel: 01386- 792622), and Jurlique’s new Natural Moisturising Foundation (£24.95), available in 4 shades, which contains natural plant and mineral pigments and provides antioxidant protection with green tea and grape seed extracts. Just what you need if you want to achieve this season’s “demi-matte” skin (for stockists and mail order, tel: 020- 8841 6644).

Foundation Sticks

A favourite with professional make-up artists, foundation sticks give more coverage than their super-sheer compact/liquid counterparts, but this can be adjusted by applying more or less as desired and blending well. A solid stick gives you more control, allowing you dot foundation just onto areas which need coverage - e.g. to conceal dark circles under the eyes or blemishes - or all over the face, for a heavier, more uniform look.

Providing “adaptable coverage”, Clarins’ new Smart Stick Foundation (£18) is formulated with micronised colour pigments, mica powder particles and ultra-fine volatile oils for long-lasting, comfortable wear. The handy, push-up stick can be used for on-the-spot touch-ups or to give professional, all-over coverage and is available in a choice of 6 shades (available now at counters nationwide). Meanwhile, from The Body Shop Colourings, Stick Foundation (£4.95) offers medium coverage in 4 shades - from Pale Ivory to Light Tan - and contains light-diffusing powders which help to soften the appearance of lines and a dose of protective, anti-aging vitamin E. Offering lightweight, oil-free coverage and a fresh finish, making it ideal for younger skins, Estée Lauder’s Minute Makeup (£21) is a gel/cream formula with an SPF15 and comes in 7 shades.

Apply directly to the skin and then blend with fingertips, or onto a make-up sponge and sweep over cheeks, chin forehead and nose for a natural-looking, flawless finish.

Multi-purpose Make-up

Can’t decide whether you want a dewy, matte, or “demi-matte” finish? The new wave of versatile, “four-in-one” foundations let you change your mind, and the finish of your foundation, according to your mood and the state of your skin.

From hip American make-up company Urban Decay, new Surreal Skin (£21) is a solid powder foundation which can be used in four ways. Presented in futuristic silver compact, you can dust it on with a powder brush for a fast, barely-there, powdered finish, or use the sponge provided for a smooth, sheer make-up. Dampening the sponge results in heavier, more complete coverage, or use it just as a concealer and apply with a damp concealer brush. Surreal Skin comes in a choice of 3 neutral shades (at selected House of Fraser stories nationwide, inquiries, tel: 0171- 963 2236). Working along the same lines, Origins’ new As Good As It Gets (£16.50) also acts as a foundation/concealer/finishing powder in one and contains antioxidant ingredients and essential oils of lavender and peppermint. Origins suggests mixing it with an eye cream to make your own professional undereye shadow concealer (for stockists, tel: 0800- 731 4039).

The last word in luxury, Guerlain’s new Twin Set Compact Powder Foundation (£29.50) contains 2 different textures of foundation in the same shade - one rich and creamy and ideal for drier skins, the other a flawlessly matte, oil-controlling powder with “soft focus” light-reflectors - together in a glamorous golden compact. The finish and the amount of coverage you get can be customised depending on which texture you use, and whether you apply them with a damp or dry sponge. Twin Set comes in a choice of 6 shades (at counters nationwide).

Prime Time

Formulas vary, but applying foundation to well-moisturised skin will help to ensure that it goes on more smoothly and evenly, especially during the colder months when skin tends to be drier in areas and foundation can look patchy as a result. Applying moisturiser before a make-up base will also give it a fresher, more natural finish.

Alternatively, you could invest in a professional make-up primer designed specifically for the task. Laura Mercier’s Foundation Primer (£23) has been used to perfect many a famous beauty’s pores before their close-ups - Madonna, Uma Thurman and Demi Moore among them. A sheer, invisible base with light-reflectors, it is suitable for all skin types and Mercier suggests storing it in the fridge, to help reduce any puffiness in the face (at space NK apothecary and by mail order, as before). Other brands include Nars’ Primer (£22, at Liberty, Regent Street, and space NK apothecary) and Ruby & Millie’s Pre Base (£8, at Harvey Nichols, London and Leeds, and selected Boots stores nationwide). Formulated especially for use under Vincent Longo’s Water Canvas (see LIGHTER THAN AIR BASES), Water Canvas Base (£25) ensures a peerlessly-smooth finish.

Perfect Powders

The make-up artist’s essential, a light layer of translucent face powder sets foundation, providing prolonged wear and a slightly matte finish. Even if you only use foundation to cover the odd blemish, gently pressing on a little powder afterwards will help to keep the offending area concealed for longer.

Try a loose powder, such as Beauty Without Cruelty’s Ultra Fine Loose Powder (£4.95) in 01 Fair or 02 Medium (for stockists and mail order, tel: 0181- 979 8156) or Tesco make-up’s Loose Face Powder (£5) in 01 Translucent only (at selected stores). Apply with a large, fluffy brush, tapping it a few times beforehand to remove any excess.

If you prefer to use a pressed powder, which is certainly more practical for a make-up bag, try Cosmetics A La Carte’s Pressed Powder (£20), with light-diffusing, ultra-fine powders, in a choice of 6 shades (available from the Knightsbridge shop, or by mail order, tel: 0171- 622 2318), or Stila’s Pressed Powder (£26), available in 4 shades (at space NK apothecary, as before).