Archive copy by Jenni Baden Howard

Right now, the industry is buzzing about Clinique’s decision to break its long tradition of never using faces in its advertising for the launch of Happy, its third fragrance, on October 31. Until now, the company has stood by its successful formula of using products photographed by Irving Penn, who can make even a bar of soap look striking.

“This was always going to be a big departure for us - it’s the first fragrance we really wanted to scream about,” says Jim Nevins, Clinique’s senior vice president and creative director. The face in question is 22 New Zealander Kylie Bax, a rising star who has already appeared on the cover of French Vogue, and in a Versace ad campaign since leaving Auckland two years ago. For Happy she has been shot by Steven Meisel.

“There’s a change going on in fragrance advertising,” says Nevins. “We’re seeing more of a relaxed, realistic attitude but it can still be aspirational. Anyway, being happy is about people showing emotion, not looking emotionally blank. Kylie gives all that in the pictures.” According to Nevins, Bax will be the first of many Happy faces. In the television commercial, she stars alongside a crop of other new faces, including Karen Elson and Alek Wek.

The 24-year-old American model Annie Morton was announced as the new face of Guerlain’s Shalimar fragrance earlier this month. The steamy new visuals, the handiwork of Helmut Newton, have caused quite a stir Stateside. “The new advertisement was intended to provoke a strong reaction,” says Diana Gzer Gers of Guerlain Inc in New York. “It re-establishes Shalimar as the perfume of temptation, with sensual and provocative imagery. The campaign is definitely attracting many new, younger customers who are all of a sudden interested in wearing Shalimar.”

According to Anton-Philip Hunger, Guerlain’s Paris-based creative director, the visuals are intended to be ageless in their appeal. “When we were searching for a new ‘face’ for the fragrance, we were looking for a real woman, a beautiful woman who expresses the origins of Shalimar. For us, Annie Morton personifies the mood of the fragrance.” If early American feedback is anything to go by, Morton’s seductive gaze and outstretched arms look set to secure a spot for Shalimar on Christmas wish lists.

Despite telling Harper’s Bazaar that she doesn’t want to be a supermodel. the 18-year old Belgian model Tanga Moreau is not exactly keeping a low profile. Her fresh-faced looks have clinched her advertising campaigns for the likes of Alberta Ferretti, Missoni and Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Chanel and Jil Sander, prompting the German designer to choose her as the launch face of her fourth fragrance, Jil.

“Why Tanga? She has an affirmed personality,” says Francoise Mariez, senior vice president of fragrance marketing for Jil Sander. “She is strong and independent and has a natural femininity, without being overdone. Tanga has a natural sensuality.”

The black and white image, shot by Bruce Weber, features Moreau as she is happiest - au naturel (she will always cleanse her face immediately after a shoot). Moreau has also clinched a prestigious, exclusive contract with Polo Ralph Lauren, which will include fragrance advertising. Without a doubt, it will provide the necessary funds for to escape from it all and open the small bar she dreams of owning somewhere. As a means to end, a girl could do worse.